Nang Masilayan Ko ang Bagong Daigdig sa Bohol

Halos takipsilim na noong ang aking mga paa’y dumampi sa isang mataas na bahagi ng lupa at ang aking mga mata’y tila walang kurap na pinagmamasdan ang naggagandahang mga burol na animo’y inihasik ng ating tagapaglikha sa isla ng Bohol. Nang masilayan ko mismo ang Chocolate Hills, ang ngiting namutawi sa aking mga labi ay tila iniukit ng isang tanyag na manlililok dahil wala itong bahid ng pagkukunwari. Ako ay nagmistulang larawan ng isang bata na sa kauna-unahang pagkakataon ay ginawaran ng medalyang ginto. Ang aking saya ay walang sisidlan dahil alam ko na katuparan iyon ng isang pangarap.

Ayon sa alamat, ang Chocolate Hills daw ay nagmula sa luhang pumatak galing sa isang higanteng sawi sa pag-ibig. Kung ito man ay isang katotohanan, ang pighati ng kanyang puso ay nagdulot naman ng kaligayahan sa bawat nilalang na makakakita nito. Sino nga ba ang hindi mamamangha sa kariktan ng libo-libong burol na ito? Marahil s’ya ay isang  bato.

Hindi nagtagal ay kinailangan kong lisanin ang tanawin na bumuo sa isang araw na nagdaan. Sa aking paglalakbay sa panibagong destinasyon kung saan madarama ko ang ibang bersyon ng buhay sa isla, minarapat kong  alalahanin ang mga kaaya-ayang bagay na nangyari sa akin sa kabuuan ng aking paglalakbay, hanggang sa ako’y bigla nanamang napangiti.

Tarsier

Sa nakatutuwang Tarsier na iilang pulgada lamang ang haba, hindi ka ba mapapangiti? Ang namimilog at dilat na dilat nilang mga mata ay nangungusap at mayroong mensaheng hatid na, “tingnan mo ako at ako’y alagaan mo.” Sa haba ng biyahe patungo sa kabilang bayan ako’y natatawa lamang sa aking sarili dahil minsa’y inisip ko na sila’y ibulsa at iuwi. Subalit, batid ko na ang ilayo mga Tarsier sa natural nilang tahanan ay hindi makabubuti para sa kanila.

Bangkilas na naglalayag sa Loboc River

Noong ako’y makarating sa inupahan kong bahay panuluyan at nang lumapat ang aking likod sa malambot na katre, wari kong narinig ang agos ng ilog. Ang kulay luntian na tubig ng ilog ng Loboc o mas kilala bilang Loboc River sa  mga turista ay muling nanumbalik sa isipan kong nais nang mamahinga. Ngunit, ang aking buhay na diwa ay naglakbay sa ikalawang pagkakataon sa masarap na pananghaliang aking natikman noong araw na iyon kasabay ng saliw ng magagandang musika mula sa isang mang aawit. Sinabayan din ito ng indak ng mga katutubo sa kalagitnaan ng paglalayag. Hindi ako nag-iisa sa paglalayag sa Loboc, lulan ng isang malaking bangkilas, kasama ko ang iba pang turista na nagsasaya. Maihahalintulad ko sa piyesta ang kapaligiran noon—matiwasay ang paligid at lahat ng tao’y nagagalak.

Halos dalawang dekada na pala ang lumipas noong ang aking murang isipan ay mamulat sa mga naggagandahang pulo dito sa Pilipinas. Tulad ng isang ordinaryong yagit na namuhay sa daigdig ng pangarap at pantasya, ako ay isa sa mga nag-asam na gawing realidad ang bawat istorya na produkto ng aking kamusmosan at tuklasin ang mga bagay na nasisilayan lamang ng aking mga mata sa libro at sa “black and white” na telebisyon. Hindi man kasing ganda ang kanilang larawan ng mga nakalathala ngayon sa peryodiko, ngunit, para sa akin, ang mga tanawing iyon ay walang kapantay sa kariktan.

Bitbit ko ang pangarap na iyon hanggang pagtanda at hanggang sa ako ay maging hinog upang magpasya sa mga bagay na nais kong tahakin. Supilin man ng panahon, pagkakataon, at balakid sa buhay ang aking pagnanais na maglakbay, nanatiling matatag at matayog ang aking pangarap na marating ang mga isla na unang binigyang buhay ng larawan.

Ako ay tila nasa alapaap pa sa unang pagtapak ng aking paa sa lupang ang sa akin ay banyaga. Marahil ay dala rin ng isang oras na pananatili sa himpapawid na aking naranasan sa kauna-unahang pagkakataon. Ang samyo ng sariwang hangin na nanunuot sa aking kalamnan ay tanda ng isang kaaya-ayang pagbati sa simula ng aking pagtuklas sa panibagong dako. Ako nga ay nasa pulo na ng Visayas.

Butterfly Garden

Hindi ko lubos maisip na ang maliit na isla ng Bohol ay siksik sa yaman. Ang akala ko noong una’y mayroon lamang itong Chocolate Hills at Tarsier, bukod pa rito ang Panglao, subalit, ako pala’y isang mang-mang nang tumambad sa akin ang katotohanang ikasisiya ng bawat tulad ko—isang taong sabik sa yaman ng kalikasan. Ang buong pulo ay puno ng  tanawing hindi lang bubusog sa mata ng bawat tao, ngunit pupukaw rin sa ating puso. Ito ay tila idinisenyo sa bawat bayan upang bigyang buhay ang buong isla. Ilan sa mga tanyag ay ang Hinagdanan Cave, Virgin Island, Balicasag Island, Man Made Forest, mga lumang simbahan tulad ng Baclayon at St. Peter at marami pang iba na naghihintay lamang masilayan ng bawat Pilipino.

Simbahan ng St. Peter o ng Loboc

Kampanaryo (belfry) ng Simbahan ng Loboc

Ilang araw bago ang unang anibersaryo ng aking paglalakbay noong ako’y unang makarating sa Bohol limang buwan na ang nakilipas mula ngayon. Ngunit, ang ala-ala ng bawat dako ay nananatiling sariwa sa aking isipan at tuwing  ito’y aking binabalikan, ako ay bumabalik sa  panahong lahat ng bagay sa aking paligid ay maaliwalas. Hindi ba’t napakasarap balikan ng mga sandaling tayo ay masaya?

Dumarating ang panahon sa  ating buhay na nais natin ng pagbabago at gawin lamang ang mga bagay na makapagpapasaya sa atin. Ang tanging inaasam natin ay mamuhay sa daigdig ng kaligayahan. Ang daigdig na mahirap marating para sa karamihan, ngunit kayang marating ng iilan. Ako ay naglalakad sa kalagitnaan ng Man Made Forest ng Bohol noong aking mabatid na ako’y nasa daigdig ng kaligayahan. Dinig ko ang saliw ng hangin kasabay ang pagaspas ng dahon ng puno at langitngit ng Kamagong. Dama ko ang lamig ng kapaligiran dahil sa pagkakakulong ko sa bisig ng kalikasan. Pawang kulay lutian ang aking nakikita saan mang dako ako tumingin. Ako ba’y nasaan? Ako ay nasa Pilipinas. Dito ko rin pala matatagpuan ang daigdig na hinahanap ng karamihan. Bawat hakbang ko sa Man Made Forest, ako ay nagagalak. Sa anong kadahilanan? Dahil doon ko napagtanto ang kakayahan ng bawat Pilipino.

Man Made Forest

Batid ko na alam ng bawat isa na tayo rin ang dahilan ng unti-unting pagkasira ng ating kalikasan, na ang ugat ay ang kawalan natin ng disiplina. Nang makita ko ang matatarik na puno ng Kamagong, ako’y biglang nabuhayan ng kalooban at napaisip, “kayang kaya naman palang gumawa ng mga Pilipino ng isang obrang makakalikasan tulad nito, bakit kaya hindi tayo gumawa ng maraming Man Made Forest sa Pilipinas.” Alam kong iyon ay posible.

Protesta sa hindi mangangalaga sa kalikasan

Muli ako’y naglakad hanggang sa nilapitan ako ng isang ginang at nagwika, “sir, bili na po kayo ng buko.” Ako’y sumagot, “sige, bibili ako pero kunan mo muna ako habang nagpa-planking.” Yun ang kauna-unahang pagkakataong ginawa ko ang isang bagay na aking kinaiinisan. At ngayon ko lang napagtanto na bawat planking na aking gagawin, kahit na ito pa ay hindi na uso, ay magiging tanda ng aking protesta  sa bawat taong hindi mangangalaga sa ating kalikasan.

Exploring Virgin Island

Dear Virgin Island,

I received a lot of outrageous reactions from my last post. My first day in Bohol didn’t turn good as I expected so I want that incident meet its natural demise. When I planned for this trip, aside from the chocolate hills and tarsiers, it was really you I was dying to see. And yes, it was a pledge that I would never leave your home without visiting you and spending ample time with you.

Summer of this year when I first saw your beauty on a publication. From that time on, I started living under your incantation. Your occult appeal never fails to paint smile on my face and inspires me to go beyond the comfort of my zone. When September ends, I began counting the days before I see you. And believe me, marking my calendar waiting for that day was pain in the ass.

My first dilemma came on the second week of October. Weather experts announced that a tropical storm will pay you a visit. With my fingers crossed, I was hoping that Ramon would be very quick as it has the tendency to beleaguer our time together. I’m so grateful that He saved you from detriment and further devastation a day before I flew to Tagbilaran.

I checked my itinerary, and it said that I was bound to meet you on my third day in Bohol. When the right time finally came, I made sure that I was fully-rested so in case you make me weak, I would never run out of energy.  From Tagbilaran, I had to leave my hotel early because before seeing you, dropping by at Alona beach and Balicasag Island shouldn’t also be dodged. You were the last I scheduled to visit because I was saving the best for last.

When I left Cliffview at Tagnan, Panglao, it was only you I was thinking even in an ungodly hour. The thoughts of you transformed my gruesome day blithe and lightened my disconsolate heart. Even the most annoying “Good morning sa inyo…” commercial of a coffee brand which I heard 3 times when I was taking my breakfast flopped to divert the fantasies of you running on my mind. You were lovely even before I see you. How much more when I’m with you?

The 30-minute ride from the city to the beach was not a torture, for my eyes gobbled on the abundant environment of your home. It was the day when the peeping bright skies showed no sign that it was only three days when Ramon threatened your dwelling. I docked at the Alona beach first, sailed through Balicasag Island and stayed there for quite some time. I finished my hefty meal—fresh sea foods that came from your home’s copious sea. Then off I went to navigate the sea again for 40 minutes.

It wasn’t a long boring wait for the desire to have my restless feet touch your powdery white sand was very potent. From the distance, your alluring formation was inescapable. You were at the right place with an impeccable angle. You don’t just captivate one’s attention, but without you knowing, you can effortlessly cuddle a soul.

At last, the long wait is over. The moment our boat anchored at the shallowest part of your water, I made the quickest and most energetic jump. It was a meet and greet of a lifetime and the best part of my experience in Bohol. Oh wait, did I inform you that you just fulfilled one of my dreams? When I started to travel same month last year, I listed the places I dream to set foot on. Among those I’ve crossed out were Sagada, Puting Buhangin at Kwebang Lampas, Magalawa Island, and just last week, it was you.

Virgin Island, your C-shaped sand bar is something that makes you idiosyncratic. You blew me away and made me pick my words one by one on your flashing sand just to get the right description that fits you. Even the verbose and word connoisseur would run out of words just to give fairness to your beauty. The midday sun that hurt my skin suddenly turned into oblivion and everything around me started to cease to exist because it was the moment where we collided.

Curiosity has also taken its toll on me with regard to your name, so I asked our boatman about it. He said that your name—Virgin Island—derive from “being uninhabited.” Though you have frequent visitors, unlike other islands in Bohol, you remained to be untouched. He also added that you vanish during high-tide and only the branches and leaves of the trees growing on your soil are seen. I jokingly replied that I thought you were island for the Virgins. Because if that is to be believed, you will have fewer visitors, or worst, no visitors anymore. Forgive me for being naughty at that.

Souvenir photos were not enough to make my visit with you worthy. I promenaded along your sand bar together with other travelers—both Filipinos and foreigners alike. I took the opportunity to do the never-to-miss-thing-at-the-beach which is the jump shot. I lay down. In tribute to Quezon City Congressman Winnie Castelo’s anti-planking bill and to express my opposition to it, I planked. And it was the best planking I had so far. I tried and failed to be an acrobat when I tumbled. I’m sorry, I didn’t dance though, If only I knew how to, I could have danced to the tune of “Teach Me How to Doggie.”

I had explored both ends of your white sand bar and enjoyed it to the fullest. I did this for more than an hour which even the wailing sun failed to prevent me from doing so. The urge to stay was hard to resist but I had to say adios because the sea was not getting calmer anymore. When it was time for me to leave, more than being distraught, I felt rewarded because no matter how rare this opportunity could be, He gave us the luxury of time and good weather to be together. I will carry our memories together and I will always remember how lovely you are.

Thank you for the memories, Virgin Island. I promise to be back.

Leo

When Love and Disappointment met at Cliffview

Before proceeding with this entry, I would like you to do me a favor first. Please leave this page if you do not want to read narration of a disappointed man about a place that deserves praises. If you wish to continue, keep your mind open as this post bans misinterpretation and have its doors closed for absurd baseless remarks. If you would abhor me right after absorbing my story, you can express your rants, but please make me see your point in the most humane way.

Natural stone pool in front of the restaurant

Resort’s restaurant

Overlooking the beach from the restaurant

Cliffview is a resort located at barangay Tagnan, Panglao island, Bohol. Contrary to the information in their website, it is 25-30 minutes away from Tagbilaran airport via private transport.

A week prior to my trip, I was so exhausted with so many things and was looking forward to a relaxing short vacation. For 4 days straight, I can’t imagine that I only managed to sleep for 3 hours every day. I changed my plan then. Instead of touring Bohol on our first day, I decided to stay in a resort in Panglao and unwind all day. Good thing that my travel companion agreed to it. No more Catigbian and no more free stay for our first two days which my friend who has a house in Catigbian initially offered. I rummaged through the internet the night before we fly to Visayas and searched for resorts that would serve as our abode for 3 days. So that tells how I found Cliffview resort. I called the owner 4 hours before we depart from the Manila just to check if we can still book one of their cottages. Reservation was easy since it is low season. Cliffview’s rate for an air-conditioned room for 2 is P2,600 (P3,500 during high season as per manager) including  breakfast. Over the phone, I told the manager (owner/foreigner) that we might stay for 3 days. But we have yet to decide when we arrive at the resort. We reached Tagbilaran airport at 1:45pm and picked up by the resort’s service.

Beautiful spot of Cliffview

Taken during sunset

One fine morning at the cliff

Cliffview is a very beautiful, unruffled, and quiet place. Its protruding Balinese inspired cottages perched at the bosom of sea and woodland will hold one’s tongue tied in apotheosis. The only audible sounds around are the humming of trees swaying with the breeze and melodious chirping of birds. At night, when you look at the sky by the beach you will be regaled by the stars whose sparks reflect under the smooth sea while blinking lights from fireflies circling in the milieu will continuously feed your eyes hankering for mirth.

Albeit not the most luxurious resort in Panglao, Cliffview for me is the most charming and unique. It doesn’t acquire the typical beachfront appearance you customarily see in a resort because it lies on a cliff. It is where the owner derived its name. The cliff though is only 2-3 metersabove the sea. One can still go down the beach during low tide but can’t swim for it is the cabin of sea grasses.

Cottages surrounded by abundant trees

Balinese inspired cottage

The manager welcomed and showed us our cottage. We were the only guests of the resort that day. We chose the cottage nearest to the pool overlooking the sea at the side. We then invited by the owner to the resort’s restaurant to discuss our stay and the rates of their packages the moment we got settled.

Before we decide whether or not to stay here for three days, our top consideration was the capability of the resort to provide us other activities such as the countryside tour and island hopping.  According to the manager, island hopping and diving might not be pursued at our most convenient time because he needs to talk to the boatman first. He said that it takes a day or two for him to provide us boat that will bring us to various islands of Panglao. We had to inform him ahead so that he will be able to make reservations. Its price is pegged at P2,000. The same rate other resorts offer for such activity. I wasn’t advised about this when I inquired the first time I called. Their countryside tour is P3,000 for the whole day which is a little expensive for me. I tried to haggle if we can get both packages for P4,500. He refused saying that he’s not earning with their packages and he’s just getting commission per tour which I honestly did not believe. Then he started delivering his marketing spiel. He lowered the countryside tour to P2,750 stressing that he would take his commission off to give us discount. I told him that I would have to rent the service-vehicle of the driver (Manong Joven) I talked to prior to my trip because I can save P500 by doing so. I checked their menu and was surprised that it is quite expensive—a meal (a cup of rice and viand for 1) would cost me P350-500, excluding the beverage. They serve each meal with a slice of mango and one banana.

After a while he offered us something.

Manager: Do you want fruits?

Me: Is it free?

Manager:  Yes, of course. Why are you thinking that you will be charged every now and then? (This remark appeared unfriendly to me.)

Me. I just thought that there’s no such thing as free nowadays. Anyway, thanks!

When I was half done with my mango, he immediately asked for our payment for 3 days amounting to P7,800. He wanted us to pay it in full. My budget for this trip was only P10,000 excluding the airfare, so I was trying to mentally compute if it is sufficient to sustain our 3 days in Bohol should we decide to avail his offer, considering the fact that we also planned to do other activities that would rob our pockets too. I respectfully said if he can excuse me and travel companion for a while to discuss it first and we will inform him right away about our decision.

Manager: Why?! (He looked irritated while throwing this question at us.)

Me:  We need to compute first our expenses in case we’re going to avail your packages, accommodation and the food. (I said calmly.)

Manager: What is your problem?! (He seemed not contented with his first irksome remark by giving this more annoying response coupled with his disgusted facial expressions.)

Same time we also found out that there’s no cellular signal for globe users in the area. Seeing his crass attitude, my travel companion and I were just staring at each other. Right there and then I told him that we’re staying for only one night. Then his behavior turned worst. He asked us again with an irritated tone while swaying his head.

Manager: What made you change your mind?!

I was very candid to explain that staying at his resort would not be convenient to us because it is hard to avail their island hopping package since it requires reservation and there’s no cellular signal which is very important to us. He continued his interrogation.

Manager: But why were you able to contact me?

Me: Because you’re using a smart number. (He held my hand and looked at my cellphone like he was trying to check if I was only lying.)

Manager: Oh. I don’t know that there’s no globe signal here. But why do you need a signal? You’re not going to use your phone anyway.

Me: It is very important to us. Yes, we’re here for vacation but we need to get in touch with our family and friends. And I’m also receiving updates from work from time to time.

Manager: Well, I still don’t understand why you need to get in touch with your family. You should have informed your parents that you’re on a trip in the first place. (I kept my mouth shut.)

My patience almost exploded like a bomb witnessing his insolence after he learned that we are only staying for one night. We wanted to dial the number of our service-vehicle but then it was deadspot in the area of the restaurant. We also cannot abandon the resort immediately and leave because we’re in a secluded place where there’s no public transport. Before reaching Cliffview, you have to pass by at a topsy-turvy street from the highway. It’s his bailiwick and matching his arrogance with the same behavior would not help. What if something happened if we antagonized him? Since I was the one dealing with him, I gathered the much-needed strength to keep my cool and hold my anger. I paid and walked towards our cottage wearing my fake smile.

Our cottage

Pool area

Room interior

View from our cottage

Later that day it was his wife (Filipino) who cooked and served our food for dinner. Though quite pricey, it was delicious. She joined us while we were eating. She was very accommodating and we had a pretty pleasant conversation with her for an hour. Informing her about what transpired during our earlier dialogue with her husband was not necessary because we wanted to put that to rest for the sake of not ruining our first day in Bohol. Somehow, the dinner appeased the disappointment and pique we had earlier. I also found out that it is not actually deadspot in the resort. There are areas where my phone received signals, but it has a very low probability.

I capped the night just remembering the good food and conversation during dinner and the beauty of the Cliffview. At 5 in the morning, I woke up finding myself drenched with sweat. I checked the air-con but it was not working, then the lights were off. In short, no electricity. I went back to bed and by 6:30 I woke up again to check if the electricity has been restored. To my surprise, there’s still no supply in times where I needed to charge my phone and camera. I went out of the cottage to ask any of the helpers what’s happening. I saw one helper cleaning the restaurant and told her about the situation. She said that electricity will be restored at 5 in the afternoon.

We arranged a countryside tour at 8:30am that day with Manong Joven that’s why after taking breakfast I hurriedly went inside the cottage to take a shower. To my surprise again, there is no water and it is almost 8am. We paid for P2,600 plus P400 for the service-vehicle from Tagbilaran to airport just to stay in a resort with no electricity and water for half of the day of our stay?

At 8am, the manager didn’t bother to check on us if we needed water to clean up the fact that he might be awake because I requested our breakfast to be served at 7:30am. I asked the helper to bring us water since resort’s manager is nowhere to be found. When I saw the manager, I approached and told him about our situation. I also said that we should’ve been informed ahead so we were able to put water in the container (which the resort does not also provide unless requested). He said there is brownout the whole morning but claimed that they weren’t notified. (Why do you know that there’s no electricity the whole morning if you weren’t notified?)

Me: Is it a scheduled brownout?

Manager: I don’t know. We always have brownout here, that’s the Philippines. I’m sorry about that. (But the apology was given with arrogance after I frowned and let him feel that I was really disappointed.)

I wanted to vanish from the resort that morning and junk my first day in Bohol due to the treatment reciprocated by the manager to us. The lack of electricity and water supply may be an isolated case. But no matter how isolated the case was, we deserved to be comforted and treated as guests who paid for the service we must avail. Since the resort has no generator, at least, the manager should have checked on us early in the morning, gave us water and apologized for the inconvenience it caused us. However, we were the one who asked the helper to bring us 3 containers of water instead of them doing so. We also felt disgusted towards the attitude of the manager which for us was antagonistic and condescending from the time he learned that we’re not staying for 3 days at Cliffview. Before we left, we told the manager’s wife that we did not enjoy our stay in their place especially the way her husband treated us. I also said that her husband was rude compared to her hospitality. She was very apologetic but it couldn’t pacify our annoyance over what had happened.

Cliffview’s beach

Beautiful sunset

Writing this icky experience is not something I’m proud to share because Cliffview met the benchmark of my ideal resort—isolated, placid, and scenic. In as much as I want to thread good words about it, my experience proves otherwise. Images posted here can give justice to the natural charm of the resort but beneath that charm lies injurious memories I long to forgo. It’s an irony that the place I loved at first glance disappointed me and failed to give me travel worth reminiscing. It’s like finding your greatest love but you cannot recall any good memories of the two of you together.