It was Sunday night when I had to repel playing hide and seek with sleep again. My eyes were ready to retire but my mind was still wandering somewhere South. Too bad it happened when I needed an 8-hour sleep to gather strength for my activity the next morning. If thinking too much can burn calories, I will make it a nightly habit. Yet, it wasn’t about gaining weight or my next adventure disturbing me that night. I’m sure it has something to do with the stories I heard and fervently absorbed—new, eerie, and unpretentious. More than that, I was rooting out for another discovery. After what I had witnessed earlier that day which draws an eternal impasse with the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo 20 years ago, I was musing if I should I look for a new find. I almost acquired pinched nerve remembering the events that transpired the whole day. I recalled the stories over and over, until I lost track of time and lulled to a soundly sleep.
Wild ducks are everywhere in Mapanuepe
What had really happened that morning?
I tapped Jhez’s back while she was gazing at the lake and the mountains aplomb to protect it. Then I asked our boatmen about their own experiences and the legendary stories in the area. Minutes later, my palm tried touching the surface of the water and the indulgent winds started sweeping my hair. When everything around me seemed tangible, it plummeted unto me that I wasn’t really dreaming. Though it felt surreal, it was real. Being carried by a boat, my flesh was like floating on the water while navigating the vastness of Mapanuepe Lake.
Me and my travel buddy, Jessanie
We explored Mapanuepe lake for more than an hour including our attempts to climb the peak of the church’s cross which is the only remaining structure seen in the area. Our boatmen also docked the bangka on the other side of the lake for us to have a view of the life amidst the undulating portion of mountains that orbited Mapanuepe. When we stepped out of the bangka, one of our boatmen (Alvin) brought us to his nipa hut erected in arrears the profuse vegetation. Here, we learned that barter system still exists in this part of Zambales. They bring fruits and vegetables to the town proper in exchange of meat and rice grains.
Other part of the lake
It didn’t take us too long to plan for this trip. When Jhez, my travel buddy, sent me the link of an article wrote by Gael Hilotin about the places to visit on Halloween—which includes the Mapanuepe lake—and asked me to go with her, “no” answer was not in the options. I agreed on her invite since we are neighbors in Castillejos and we were planning to spend the long weekend in our hometown.
Mapanuepe Lake
At Aglao, San Marcelino, Zambales lolls a product of once livid Mt. Pinatubo. And it only takes one volcanic eruption to create a contour of a body of water that is perennial and enthralling—the Mapanuepe Lake.
The water looks transparent during our visit
Contrary to some notions that it is creepy, the lake looks irenic and to some extent is greater than calm. Its location gives the impression that it is intended to be there. No one would ever perceive a body of water enclaves by highlands as monstrous. Would you?
This is the peak of a submerged hill. Now, it looks like an islet.
The story behind the formation of the lake would really give horripilation to those who hear it, especially if you come to know that it got featured on American TV series Destination of Truth entitled “Ahool and Pinatubo Monster.” Some locals claimed that they saw a 7-8 feet unknown creature swimming in the lake. However, when the crew of the Destination of Truth explored it (they really hunt the said creature), they didn’t see any. Then later on experts say maybe the shadow that townsfolk see under the water is only schools of fish forming a huge creature-like when view from above. The monster creature may be a fiction but the story about the formation of Mapanuepe—though tragic—is something treasured by the residents of Aglao because it reminds them of the history of their old village and how it gave birth to another gem.
It is not new to those born during the 80’s that Mt. Pinatubo’s eruption in June 1991 was considered as one of the worst volcanic eruptions in the world. Zambalenos were among those who felt the toughest assault. While people were busy rescuing their lives, Mt. Pinatubo was also hewing another wonder. The lahar flowing down the volcano blocked the passages of the main river and other tributaries around San Marcelino. When incessant rains poured harder, the rivers overflowed and caused flooding. Since their passages have been blocked, the waters found new paths and spilled through the villages of Aglao and Pili. Eventually, it submerged the two barangays. The old Aglao totally eradicated in the map while only part of Pili got inundated. This scenario gave birth to the lake.
Submerged 2-story church of Santa Barbara
Attempt to climb the cross
There were no reports or figures of the fatalities when the two villages mutated into lake. According to our boatmen who live in Aglao, the residents were notified of the peril that might happen that is why they were able to evacuate before raging waters swallow them alive. Lucky for them if it was true. But I am really cynical about it. Why? We, Filipinos, believe that our church and faith will spare us from cataclysmic events, whether it is man-made disaster or force majeure, once we sheltered behind the church’s wall, we will be safe from any obnoxious elements (I am talking of the natural occurrences in our environment not of salvation in another world). It was the same mentality of the people of Daraga when they sheltered in Cagsawa church that eventually devastated by the lava. Maybe, just maybe, when the floods started to deluge parts of Aglao and Pili, some of the residents ran to the 2-storey Santa Barbara church aside from climbing to higher places for rescue. But unfortunately, the church has not been saved from the wrath of nature; it almost vanished and sunk to now Mapanuepe lake. That explains why only the steal cross of Santo Barbara church is visible. Until now, there is still no account as to how many innocent lives were there when it got submerged, if there were any.
Photo taken by Jhez
While we were touring the lake, our boatmen continued to unfold every little detail of their experiences and memories when the movie-like scenario was happening. They were like preachers to us presenting the before and after face of their village. I was more interested on the “after-scenario” though, because I wanted to find out if some stories I have read relating to Aglao were true—or I just really needed to hear it directly from them to scare the hell out of me.
And my assumption proved me right. We were told that every year, the lake takes one life, and if it fails to, it would take two lives the following year. Residents also claimed that they hear screeches coming from the lake at night. They were also taken aback how two marines disappeared mysteriously when they were swimming at the lake. I know these kinds of folktales seem like a replay of the same stories we hear from locals living in remote places. In spite of that, it felt different hearing it from people who witnessed the turn of tide. At the end of the day, it isn’t about hearing creepy and disturbing stories that matters, but how they ended the day breathing despite of their lurid ordeal.
Road going to Aglao
Jhez and I boarded our rented-vehicle succeeding our trip in town next to ours sans feeling alien in our own province. We were also relieved knowing that the mining nearby the lake has stopped its operation which brings back the healthy water of Mapanuepe. It was polluted with mercury leaking from the mining operation before. The bumpy and dusty terrain that took us 1 hour and 30 minutes to traverse from San Marcelino public market to barangay Aglao (including few stops to take photos) was hosted by the revelation of two panoramic sights: the left side denudes dessert-like landscape whereas the right side parades green fields.
Desert-like area
It is irrefutable that Mt. Pinatubo eruption crafted something for the people—something to be appreciated and revered following its ire. It washed out lives but replenished it with wonders. After Mapanuepe lake, what else will burgeon and will be discovered?
Green fields on the other side of the dusty road
(One thing I had observed though, most of the townsfolk didn’t know that the lake is called Mapanuepe. They refer to it as “Lawa.” When I asked our boatmen where does its name come from, they said they don’t have any idea. They also claimed that foreigners gave its name just recently. When I was doing my research, some online articles stipulated that it got its name from Mapanuepe river, there is Mapanuepe valley, that Marella river is one of the major passages blocked by the lahar causing the floods, but none of them have been brought up by the locals and they were clueless about it. Okay, let us say that they don’t know about the Marella river, but it is still surprising that Mapanuepe is anonymous to them given the fact that there is a river and valley named after it. Manong driver, who lives in the area for more than 40 years and serviced us during our trip, also didn’t know that the lake is called Mapanuepe. I was supposed to go to the municipality of the town to inquire but it was closed. On my next visit, I’ll proceed to the tourism department of San Marcelino and I’ll update this blog whatever it is I will find out.)
YOU WANT TO EXPLORE MAPANUEPE LAKE?
HERE ARE THE TIPS:
VIA PUBLIC TRANSPORT
-From Manila, ride a bus bound to Iba or Sta. Cruz, Zambales. There are Victory terminals in Caloocan (Monumento), Cubao, Sampaloc, and Pasay (fare: P250-300)
-Get off at San Marcelino (third town from Olongapo)
OR
-From Manila, ride a bus bound to Olongapo. Get off at Olongapo terminal then ride a jeepney or bus going to San Marcelino (fare: P35)
-From San Marcelino, ride a jeepney going to Aglao (45minutes-1hour) (fare: P35)
IMPORTANT!
-From Mondays to Fridays, jeepneys from San Marcelino public market going to Aglao only leave once in the morning and return once in the afternoon. Pls ask their schedule.
-On weekends, it leaves only once in the morning (and never return… hehe… kidding) and will return back to town the next day. You will also wait for looonnggg hours (1-3 hours seriously) before the jeep departs from the town. Since we went there on a Sunday, we rented a tricycle so we can get back to town any time after the trip. If you have extra budget, I recommend that you rent a tryk. It’s very convenient to have a service because you can drop off at any area of your choice and take photos. Plus, you have the control of your time. Rent starts from P500-600 for 2. Most parts of the road aren’t paved yet.
-Boat rental starts from P300-P500 per boat regardless of the number (of course it depends on the capacity of the boat, a small one can’t carry 10 persons). For P300, you will only go to the sunken Sto. Nino Church, that’s it. For P500, you will tour the whole lake and get the chance to interact with the Aetas if you choose to trek to their village located on the other side of the lake.
-Bring enough water and food.
DIALOGUE WITH A WANDERER 